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EDUCATIONAL INFO

INSPECTION
FOR
STORED OR INFREQUENTLY USED BOATS

Marine Survey
De-Winterizing Checklist
Stored or Infrequently Used Boat Inspection
Winterizing Introduction and Checklist
Hurricane Preparedness
Boat Maintenance
Basic Boat Inspection Test
So You Want to Buy a Boat
Sail Trim for Cruisers

 

This suggested easy to follow checklist pertains to inspection items for stored or infrequently used boats which could prove very useful.
 

OUTSIDE

If your boat’s in the water, begin by checking the waterline. Is there a change? Check docklines at the dock and boat for security and chafe. Adjust the chafe guards if necessary. Make sure your fenders are properly placed and check for any hull marks that might signal a problem.

If your boat is stored ashore, check the jackstands, cradle or trailer to make sure the boat hasn’t shifted. The boat should be level so that water doesn’t cause stains or worse, leaks down below.

Check cockpit drains and scuppers for blockage. Boats sink when leaves or snow prevent water from draining. Even boats stored ashore can "sink" when pooled water finds its way below.

Examine your boat cover. Look for the beginning of tares, loose fittings, and chafe. Make sure that the cover isn’t allowing water to accumulate or inadvertently funneling water where it shouldn’t.

If you have a sailboat with roller furling, be sure it is wrapped securely and can’t unfurl in a blow. Better yet, for long periods, take it off.

With power boat outdrives, examine the bellows (flexible rubber connections that seal the outdrive and cables from the boat). Make sure your wheel or tiller is secured to prevent rudder damage.

Inspect shore power cords beginning at the dock pedestal and follow to the inlet to your boat. Corrosion on the plug’s blades or inlet can cause heat and if bad enough, a fire. Make sure the cord can’t get in the water or get crushed against the dock.

Check doors, companionways, and hatches. Make sure no one can easily get into (or has gotten into!) your boat.

INSIDE

The first thing to do when you get inside your boat is sniff. Does the boat smell moldy? There could be a leak. Any electrical odor? It’s possible that a circuit could be overloaded or shorted - find the source. Any other smells like gasoline, propane or vermin need to be investigated right away.

Check portholes and hatches for leaks and look for water stains. Better take care of your problem before it gets worse.

Inspect your bilge. Any unusual standing water means a leak, and even a small leak can eventually sink a boat. Check the operation of the bilge pump and float switch. If you’re not sure if your bilge pump is coming on while you are away, consider installing a bilge pump cycle counter.

Insure that all thru-hulls are closed (with the exception of cockpit drains). While you are checking, it’s a good idea to open and close each seacock a couple of time to keep them from seizing. If the boat is stored ashore now would be a good time to service sticky seacocks.

ENGINE COMPARTMENT

Inspect your batteries for terminal corrosion and top off with distilled water (if you have conventional wet cells). If you have a panel meter or multi-meter, you can check the state of charge - 12.6 volts is typically fully charged but readings can be up to 13.8 if attached to a charger. A bilge pump needs a fully charged battery to work properly. Remember dead batteries don’t sink boats, they’re a symptom of a larger problem.

Check hoses clamps and wires. A gentle tug can uncover a problem and prevent a disaster. Check generator fittings and connections if you have one.

Look for any fuel, oil, or cooling water leaks.

If your boat’s stored in the water, pay special attention to your stuffing box: leaking stuffing boxes sink boats every year. A stuffing box should not drip when not in use.